Mount Baker Climb - Easton Glacier
Mount Baker Climb - Easton Glacier
Located on the south side of Mt. Baker, the Easton Glacier offers about the easiest line of ascent to the top of Baker. Our 3-day Baker climb is suitable for those simply looking for a summit experience, or those new to climbing that are interested in learning more about climbing on glaciers. A 3-day itinerary gives us enough time to get everything done without feeling too rushed, and involves 2 days of movement, a fixed base camp, and a full day of skills training.Mount Baker Climb - Easton Glacier Itinerary
Mt. Baker Climb Day 1: 8 am group orientation and introductions at the NPS/USFS ranger station in Sedro-Woolley, WA. Prior to the trip you will be contacted by our office to make sure you have all the gear you need and to arrange rentals of the items you do not own or want to buy. At this morning meeting we will conduct a thorough equipment check, distribute group gear, and help each member organize their pack for the hike in.
We will then drive for approximately one hour to the trail head at Schreibers Meadow (3200') and begin our hike to our camp near the edge of the Easton Glacier. The hike in takes roughly 4 hours and is good training for the climb of Baker. On the hike in your guides will discuss climbing efficiently and will orient you in the latest Leave No Trace techniques. We will place our camp at around 6000', and use the evening to enjoy the views, cover a few basic skills, and prepare dinner.
Mt. Baker Climb Day 2: This day will be used to review the basic skills required for a climb of Mt. Baker, including: ice axe self-arrest, use of crampons, rope-travel, team arrest, climbing efficiencies, and making corners. We will also provide an introduction to crevasse rescue, giving you a very basic idea of how we can pull someone from a crevasse if the end up in one. This basic introduction involves a demonstration, review of some basic climbing knots and hitches, and a discussion of snow anchors. We will plan to get to bed early for a pre-dawn start the next morning.
Mt. Baker Climb Day 3: We generally get up sometime before sunrise, have breakfast, and then begin our climb to the summit of Mt. Baker. Most parties rope up at around 7000' and then seek the easiest line up the Easton Glacier to around 9600' near the Sherman Crater steam vents. From here, it is usually about an hour to the the summit, and the climb above involves a short section of 30 degree climbing. Once on top, we snap photos, suck in the amazing view, and then begin our descent. We generally descend to camp, pack up, and then hike out to the trailhead. You should plan to be back in Seattle by 7 pm.
Alternatives to scheduled Mt. Baker climbs
We offer set dates primarily so that people coming in groups of 1 or 2 can keep their cost down and have the opportunity to meet and climb with other people. If you would prefer to set your own date, or want to climb with a specific group of friends or family members, we can easily arrange a custom program for you. For groups of 3 or more the cost for a custom climb is actually a bit less than our scheduled program and thus is a very economical option for putting together your climb. Contact the office to inquire about open dates and the route that will be best for your group.Qualifications for climbing Mt. Baker
You do not need previous climbing experience for this climb, but you do need to be in good condition. Expect to carry a pack weighing between 30-40lbs, the primary factor being how much lightweight climbing gear you utilize. Group members are expected to carry their portion of the group gear including tents, food, and a portion of the climbing gear. If you would prefer to have a lighter pack going to and from the camp, we can arrange porters for an additional fee.Other routes we guide on Mt. Baker

